Feriados in Guatemala

Guatemala has a total of 340 towns, and almost every single one hosts an annual festival. Before we get into what happens during a feriado (festival), let me give you a bit of background. In Guatemala, each town has a patron saint (or protecting saint) from the Catholic Church, and the towns throw feriados (festivals) to honor them. These festivals mix religious ceremonies with fun, local activities to celebrate. The people living in the towns thank their patron saint for bringing them good fortune, keeping them safe and helping with their harvests. The celebrations for the patron saint include ceremonies, parades, music shows, dances, fairs, kids' activities, sometimes bullfights and always amusement rides. 

When my host family first mentioned feriados (festivals), I initially thought they would last about a week. However, I was surprised to learn that they actually extend for nearly a whole month! This is because the festival is packed with so many activities that it's almost impossible to fit them all into just one week. The first indication that the feriado (festival) was approaching was the sight of trucks arriving in town with various carnival rides and games.

It felt like I was about to experience Luna Park on Coney Island, and I was thrilled. I'm referring to rides like a ferris wheel, bumper cars, a swinging pirate ship, small roller coasters, the claw and more!

Costumes during el baile de los Moros y Cristianos

While the carnival rides and games bring some energy to the town, they can't compete with the excitement of all the parades that happen throughout the month. One of the biggest parades features el baile de los Moros y Cristianos (the dance of the Moors and Christians). It's a traditional folk dance that tells the story of the Spanish armies defeating the Arab armies. This battle happened over a thousand years ago around the years 501 to 600. While this battle occurred in Spain, the dance was brought to Guatemala during the Spanish colonization as a way to convert Indigenous people to Christianity. Back then, joining the dance meant converting to Christianity. Today, the dance is part of the popular parade, where people show off flashy costumes, masks and headdresses to represent each side.

Costumes during a convite

Another well-known parade in town is known as a convite, a word whose exact translation I haven’t been able to crack, but whose meaning is tied to the idea of an invitation to share time together. Similar to el baile de los Moros y Cristianos (the dance of the Moors and Christians), it features some dazzling costumes. The first ever participants of the convites wore costumes and masks from traditional dances, primarily showing animals like monkeys, tigers and deer. These costumes later evolved to include characters from popular culture, such as television figures like Bugs Bunny, Spiderman, Buzz Lightyear and more. Today, convites are a blend of everything, with costumes and characters that reflect Guatemalan culture and incorporate Mayan influences, including colorful feathers, skulls, and wolf and tiger representations inspired by the attire of Mayan warriors.

Traditions are important in Guatemalan culture, and this one remains vibrant. It is a time for the community to come together as one and join in the festivities. San Bernardino (Saint Bernard) is Patzun's patron saint. Each year, the community chooses a family to host the town's representation of the saint in their home for the year, taking care of it and welcoming visitors during the festival. After the parade has passed through town, a group of men carry the representation of the patron saint on their shoulders and place him on a special altar decorated with all kinds of flowers and an alfombra. An alfombra is a carpet-like decoration made from the sawdust, which is often painted and used to form different designs. After this, community members, dancers and others gather at this home to enjoy a cup of horchata (a traditional rice drink) and a plate of caldo (beef stew).

Altar where the patron saints are placed after the parades.

In Guatemala, the Indigenous communities rely on their harvests for survival, with maíz (corn) being their primary staple, or main food. This crop and many others not only provide essential health and nutrition but also serve as sources of income, as many individuals sell their produce at local mercados (markets). This tradition not only celebrates the town's patron saint but also offers a chance for people to express their gratitude for the blessings received throughout the year. It serves as an occasion to preserve and honor cultural heritage, highlighting how colonial history and long-lasting Mayan traditions have coexisted, or existed alongside each other, for many years.